Other model names that have appeared over the years include “Geneve” and “DeVille.” As best as I am able to tell, Omega merely used these names to create additional product line and, hence, occupy more space on jeweler’s shelves. I can find no correlation between these names and a certain “type” of watch. For example, neither of the two names necessarily denote a watch with an automatic movement. I suspect these names were given to Omega’s more “economy class” of watches (i.e., those not designated a Seamaster or Constellation) to make them appear, or at least sound, more elegant.

Today, Omega has dropped the “Geneve” name but continues to use the DeVille label to denote a line of more dressy watches as opposed to the more “sporty” look of the Constellation, Speedmaster, and Seamaster lines.

The Many Faces of the “Moon”

Of course, the watch that probably “defines” Omega —at least in contemporary times—is the Omega Speedmaster Professional (SP), commonly referred to in vintage collector circles as “the moon watch.” Few vintage watches have created so much confusion and misunderstanding in the marketplace, i.e., what constitutes a legitimate “moon watch” versus just a generic “Speedmaster Professional.” I will attempt to clarify this issue briefly, and for more information I would recommend reading an excellent article about this watch and its history in the February 1993 issue of the NAWCC Bulletin.

To start, when you are talking about a “moon watch,” you are talking about one particular type of Speedmaster. The watch in question was introduced in 1957. At that time, it was simply called Speedmaster and was priced at $82.50.

For all intent and purposes, it is the same watch as the ones produced today. It is a three-register, manually wound chronograph equipped with a 17-jewel movement. The first caliber to be used in this watch was the Lemania Cal. 27 CHRO C12-321. This movement actually dated back to 1942!

In 1968, an improved movement was introduced, the Lemania Cal. 861. This caliber has just recently been changed to “1861,” with one jewel added to make 18. So obviously, you will see this watch with different movements. In 1966, Omega changed the name of this model to “Speedmaster Professional,” in recognition of NASA’s use of the watch. And, subsequent to that, Omega began engraving the backs of these watches: “FLIGHT QUALIFIED BY NASA FOR ALL MANNED SPACE MISSIONS.” Some think this is pretty impressive, and that an Omega SP with the inscription should command a big premium over one with a plain back.

 But here is a basic truth: There is no difference between the watches, other than the fact that one is engraved and one is not, and that the non-engraved versions appear to be fewer in number. However, from a mechanical standpoint, there is NO DIFFERENCE. All Omega SPs with 17/18-jewel manual-wind movements are, by definition, a “moon watch.” Still, some think the inscribed model should command hundreds of dollars more than one with a plain back. Heck, you can ORDER an inscribed back for most any SP through any authorized Omega dealer. But the market has a mind of its own, and this debate continues.

Now, that said, it is important to remember that Omega has produced numerous LIMITED edition SPs through the years. These do command premium prices over just a “regular” SP, though the extra value placed on them is debatable, in my opinion.

A Tuning Fork Model

It is also interesting to note that during the 1970s,  Omega produced tuning fork models under license from Bulova (these are essentially Accutron movements). These models, along with those produced by other Swiss companies such as Universal Geneve and Longines, apparently did not do very well on the market in their day. Today, they are tough to find and, consequently, quite collectible.

 Indeed, Omega provides very fertile ground for the collector who enjoys diversity. I have talked a lot about Omega sport watches, but certainly there are many dress watches that are seen in steel and gold-filled and solid gold.

Collectors who dedicate themselves to Omegas will  find a great diversity at all levels of the financial spectrum.