As a collector of timepieces I, like many others, have refined my preferences to a greater degree than I ever imagined I would when I started down this path. As a result, it has become increasingly difficult to find a wristwatch that is designed just as I would like. On the market today there are many lovely watches that are simply too small for my taste; there are fabulous-looking watches that employ the same movement as hundreds of lesser watches; there are watches that incorporate very desirable movements but have high price tags or feature designs that do not appeal to me . . . in short, rarely does a watch appear that has nothing about it that I would change.

Adding to this frustration is the recent trend toward large watches. I am not generally one to follow fashion, but the weight and bulk of many large watches contributes to an aesthetic appeal that I appreciate. Most of these large watches, however, are powered by the ubiquitous Unitas 6498/6497 series of pocket watch movements—some of which have fantastic decorative finishing, and others that are nearly factory stock—and they are often visible through sapphire crystals. The prevalence of this movement has forced me to look elsewhere for a large watch; I have nothing against it, but I want something less common. Something else I find irksome is the use of undersized ETA automatics in huge watches—precluding the use of a see-through case back, which I consider indispensable. How, then, is one to acquire a large watch with a noteworthy movement (one worth seeing) for a reasonable price?

An Idea is Formulated

As a collector of both wrist and pocket timepieces, I am further frustrated by the lack of opportunities to use and enjoy some of the fantastic pocket watches that are available today for much less than the price of a modern watch of lesser quality. It is this last impediment, however, that was the genesis of a solution to all of these issues: the creation of a custom-built wristwatch using a neglected vintage pocket watch movement.

I have recently become interested in a small class of American pocket watch movements made roughly around the second quarter of the twentieth century. Howard, Hamilton, and Elgin all made 10-size movements of high grades and interesting construction. The Howard “Thin Model” (17, 19, or 21 jewels) from the 1920s has a very interesting bridge design akin to that of a 16-size Howard Series 11 Railroad Chronometer. Hamilton’s Grade 917 forms the basis of a series of four grades (with 17, 21, or 23 jewels) of 10-size movements with some lovely features. Elgin manufactured several versions of the Grade 54x series with varying numbers of jewels (15, 17, or 21) and adjustments (0-8) which were sturdy but unadorned. The plainness of the Elgin, which seemed to be a drawback at first, eventually prompted me to take my first serious steps toward the creation of a unique wristwatch. Having already purchased a stock wristwatch case meant to hold a Unitas 6498/7 movement, and finding that it was too small for the American 10-size movements I own, I set aside the idea of having the case modified in favor of a more complete approach. I needed something more befitting a person who is picky about the end result, but unable to manufacture a watch himself.

A Watchmaker is Discovered

In the course of reading print and online articles about everything watch-related, I came across information about Jochen Benzinger of Pforzheim, Germany, who does engraving and engine-turning (guilloché) and skeletonizing of watch movements, and will build one-of-a-kind wristwatches to suit his customers. I contacted Mr. Benzinger about the prices for such pieces and to see if he might be the man to help realize my dream. Several of Benzinger’s custom-built pieces are powered by the Unitas 6498 movement, so I suspected that he could provide a wristwatch case large enough to accept the American 10-size movement. After a few e-mails discussing options and cost, we decided that I should send him some photographs of the movement I had in mind for incorporation into the watch.

The Process Begins

The sharing of photographs led to further discussions and to my shipping him a 21-jewel Elgin Grade 543 that I had bought, uncased, from a U.S. supplier. For good measure, I included a 15-jewel Grade 546 for Mr. Benzinger to use for spare parts or practice. We discussed still more options—such as the extent of engraving and engine-turning to be done on the piece—and debated whether to skeletonize the movement. Budgetary constraints dictated that the case be made of steel rather than precious metal, but white metals are my preference so this was no disappointment. After a handful of messages back and forth I felt that I had made my preferences clear to Mr. Benzinger, and I was comfortable that he would improvise based upon his talent and experience to complete the decoration of the movement.

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